Sustainable batik dyeing with ketapang (terminalia catappa) leaves: a practice-led experimental study on color retention and design innovation

(1) Aprina Murwanti Mail (Universitas Negeri Jakarta, Indonesia)
(2) * Fariz Al Hazmi Mail (Universitas Indraprasta PGRI, Jakarta, Indonesia)
(3) Fauzy Prasetya Kamal Mail (Universitas Paramadina, Jakarta, Indonesia)
*corresponding author

Abstract


This study investigates the batik production process through a focused experimental approach on three key aspects: motif exploration, technique application, and the use of natural dyes extracted from Ketapang leaves. Employing a practice-led research methodology, the experiments were conducted at Rumoh Batik Malaka in Aceh Besar Regency, Aceh Province, Indonesia. Data were collected via systematic observation, experimental trials, and comprehensive literature review. The color quality of batik samples was quantitatively assessed through RGB value analysis using grayscale imaging processed in MATLAB software. Results revealed that natural dyes derived from Ketapang leaves exhibit a measurable decline in color intensity when applied to batik textiles. Specifically, samples fixed with alum and calcium oxide and subjected to two dipping cycles showed significant fading, with grayscale values increasing from 0.5 to 0.7 post-wax removal (lorod). Conversely, optimal color retention was observed in samples fixed with ferrous sulfate and subjected to four dipping cycles, presenting minimal fading with values rising only from 0.1 to 0.2 after lorod. Six distinct batik pieces were produced, showcasing diverse motifs and color variations derived from the natural dye. The findings confirm that dye concentration and fixation type critically influence the colorfastness and aesthetic outcome, supporting the viability of Ketapang leaf extracts as sustainable natural dyes for cotton batik production. This research contributes to enriching batik design practices by promoting natural dye applications and innovative stamping techniques, offering ecological and cultural value to the textile arts in Indonesia and beyond.

Keywords


Exploration; Batik; Natural Dyes; Ketapang Leaves; Aceh Besar

   

DOI

https://doi.org/10.31763/viperarts.v7i1.1698
      

Article metrics

10.31763/viperarts.v7i1.1698 Abstract views : 104

   

Cite

   

References


[1] M. T. van de Kamp, W. Admiraal, L. Coertjens, M. Goossens, and G. Rijlaarsdam, “The Relationship of Types of Exploration Activities with Originality of Visual Arts Designs,” Journal of Creative Behavior, vol. 56, no. 1, 2022, doi: 10.1002/jocb.519.

[2] X. Zhan and S. Walker, “Craft as Leverage for Sustainable Design Transformation: A Theoretical Foundation,” Design Journal, vol. 22, no. 4, 2019, doi: 10.1080/14606925.2019.1613040.

[3] A. Sudarwanto and D. Priyanto, “The process of making batik wayang beber using digital canting with sungging painting coloring technique,” International Journal of Visual and Performing Arts, vol. 4, no. 2, 2022, doi: 10.31763/viperarts.v4i2.718.

[4] S. J. Markowitz, “The Distinction between Art and Craft,” Journal of Aesthetic Education, vol. 28, no. 1, 1994, doi: 10.2307/3333159.

[5] J. R. Martin and E. Panofsky, “Meaning in the Visual Arts,” Art Bull, vol. 40, no. 2, 1958, doi: 10.2307/3047766.

[6] A. Wulandari, Batik Nusantara: Makna Filosofis, Cara Pembuatan dan Industri Batik, vol. 30, no. 1. Yogyakarta: Andi, 2022.

[7] N. P. R. TSANI, “Perancangan busana pria dengan inspirasi motif jawa hokokai menggunakan pola zero waste,” TANRA: Jurnal Desain Komunikasi Visual Fakultas Seni dan Desain Universitas Negeri Makassar, vol. 9, no. 3, 2022, doi: 10.26858/tanra.v9i3.36695.

[8] F. Al Hazmi and A. Oetopo, “Utilization Of Rhizophora Stylosa Bark For Natural Dyeing On Cotton Batik Fabric,” Corak, vol. 11, no. 1, 2022, doi: 10.24821/corak.v11i1.5727.

[9] S. Sularso, A. Cahyono, Q. Yu, J. Suranto, Z. Mistortoify, and L. Budhi, “Strategies and techniques for crafting a scientific manuscript for artistic publication: a guide for academic artists in Indonesia,” International Journal of Visual and Performing Arts, vol. 6, no. 1, pp. 1–11, Mar. 2024, doi: 10.31763/viperarts.v6i1.1314.

[10] B. Azaroh and R. Suhartini, “Exploration of Jlamprang Batik Motifs using Digital Printing Techniques to Apply Please on Men’s Shirt,” East Asian Journal of Multidisciplinary Research (EAJMR), vol. 3, no. 10, pp. 4777–4796, 2024, doi: 10.55927/eajmr.v3i10.11470.

[11] T. Rahayuningsih, F. S. Rejeki, E. R. Wedowati, and D. Widhowati, “Exploration source of natural dyes for batik from fresh and fallen leaves,” in IOP Conference Series: Earth and Environmental Science, 2019. doi: 10.1088/1755-1315/230/1/012081.

[12] H. Amira and M. S. Ramadhan, “Eksplorasi motif Jawa Hokokai dengan teknik batik cap pada material denim,” ATRAT: Jurnal Seni Rupa, vol. 6, no. 3, 2018.

[13] M. A. Boden, The creative mind: Myths and mechanisms. 2003.

[14] A. K. Guha, “A Review on Sources and Application of Natural Dyes in Textiles,” International Journal of Textile Science, vol. 8, no. 2, 2019.

[15] R. S. Saragih, Y. Suherlan, and S. Budi, “Perancangan Motif Batik Teknik Canting Cap Kertas Dengan Sumber Ide Mangrove Kutawaru,” Jurnal Pengabdian Seni, vol. 4, no. 2, 2023, doi: 10.24821/jps.v4i2.10878.

[16] S. Verma and G. Gupta, “Natural dyes and its applications: A brief review,” IJAR-International Journal of Research and Analytical Reviews, vol. 4, no. 1, 2017.

[17] D. Suheryanto, NATURAL DYES – Ensiklopedia Zat Warna Alami Dari Tumbuhan Untuk Industri Batik. Yogyakarta: Penerbit Andi, 2017.

[18] R. Ahsan, A. Masood, R. Sherwani, and H. Khushbakhat, “Extraction and Application of Natural Dyes on Natural Fibers: An Eco-Friendly Perspective,” Review of Education, Administration & LAW, vol. 3, no. 1, 2020, doi: 10.47067/real.v3i1.22.

[19] T. Pujilestari, “Review: Sumber dan Pemanfaatan Zat Warna Alam untuk Keperluan Industri,” Dinamika Kerajinan dan Batik: Majalah Ilmiah, vol. 32, no. 2, 2016, doi: 10.22322/dkb.v32i2.1365.

[20] A. Pannozzo, “The (Ir) relevance of Technology: Creating a Culture of Opportunity by Design,” Des Manage Rev, vol. 18, no. 4, 2007, doi: 10.1111/j.1948-7169.2007.tb00090.x.

[21] Graeme Sullivan. Art practice as research: Inquiry in visual arts. Sage, 2010.

[22] Donald A. Schön, “The reflective practitioner: How professionals think in action” Routledge, 2017.

[23] Gustami, “Butir-butir mutiara estetika timur: ide dasar penciptaan seni kriya Indonesia”, Prasista, 2007.

[24] Elizabeth B.-N. Sanders and Pieter Jan Stappers, “Co-creation and the new landscapes of design”, Co-design, 2008, 4.1: 5-18. doi: 10.1080/15710880701875068

[25] Coimbatore K. Prahalad and Venkat Ramaswamy, “Co-creation experiences: The next practice in value creation” Journal of interactive marketing, 2004, 18.3: 5-14. doi: https://doi.org/10.1002/dir.20015

[26] Tom Barone and Elliot WEisner, “Arts based research”, Sage, 2011.

[27] Linda Candy and Ernest Edmonds. Practice-based research in the creative arts: Foundations and futures from the front line. Leonardo, 2018, 51.1: 63-69. doi: https://doi.org/10.1162/LEON_a_01471

[28] Caecilia Tridjata S., Ataswarin Oetopo, and Fariz Al Hazmi, “Pemberdayaan Penyandang Disabilitas Mental Melalui Pelatihan Membatik di Yayasan Jiwa Layang,” Diklus: Jurnal Pendidikan Luar Sekolah, vol. 6, no. 2, 2022, doi: 10.21831/diklus.v6i2.47968.

[29] R. Mulyawan, A. Saefumillah, and F. Foliatini, “Biosorpsi timbal oleh biomassa daun ketapang,” Molekul, vol. 10, no. 1, 2015, doi: 10.20884/1.jm.2015.10.1.173.

[30] C. Darsih et al., “Dyeing of cotton fabric with natural dye from cudrania javanensis using soka leaves extract as biomordant,” Dinamika Kerajinan dan Batik: Majalah Ilmiah, vol. 36, no. 2, 2019, doi: 10.22322/dkb.v36i2.5446.

[31] Singh R and Srivastava S, “Exploration of Flower Based Natural Dyes-A Review,” 2015.

[32] C. Dolca, “Textiles coloured with natural dyes of vegetal origin,” Scientific Bulletin Series D : Mining, Mineral Processing, Non-Ferrous Metallurgy, Geology and Environmental Engineering, vol. 32, no. 2, pp. 81–89, 2018, doi: 10.37193/SBSD.2018.2.09.

[33] Budiyono, Kriya Tekstil. Direktorat Pembinaan Sekolah Menengah Kejuruan, 2008.

[34] S. Sumarno, R. E. B. Prasetyo, A. Cahyana, and C. Sugiarto, “Utilization of empon-empon stem waste in the creation of eco-friendly homeware products,” International Journal of Visual and Performing Arts, vol. 6, no. 1, pp. 27–35, Mar. 2024, doi: 10.31763/viperarts.v6i1.1338.

[35] D. Kurniawati, O. Jaya Anggraeni, C. Nur Karimah, A. Abdurrahman, A. Subagiyo, and P. Negeri Jember Jl Mastrip Kotak Pos, “Inovasi Canting Cap Batik Sebagai Upaya Peningkatan Produksi Pada Wirausahawan Batik Disabilitas Info Artikel,” vol. 2, no. 3, 2023, [Online]. Available: https://jurnalilmiah.id/index.php/abdimas

[36] Siti Maulin, Cut Zuriana and Lindawati, “ Makna motif ragam hias pada rumah tradisional Aceh di museum Aceh”, Jurnal Ilmiah Mahasiswa Pendidikan Seni, Drama, Tari & Musik, 2019, 4.1.

[37] Y. Novianti and L. Amalia, “Ornamen Rumah Adat Aceh Utara dalam Terminologi Arsitektur,”Arsir, 2023, 6.2: 136-152.

[38] R. Raehana, “Identifikasi ragam hias tradisional Aceh Besar”, Jurnal Ilmiah Mahasiswa Pendidikan Kesejahteraan Keluarga, 6(2), 1-17, 2022.

[39] Zakiati Am, Ismawan and Lindawati, “ragam motif dan makna yang terdapat pada kupiah riman di desa adan meunasah dayah kecamatan mutiara timur kabupaten pidie”, Jurnal Ilmiah Mahasiswa Pendidikan Seni, Drama, Tari & Musik, 2018, 3.2.

[40] R. S. Wijaya, S. A. Kafri, and N. P. Rachmadani, “Identifikasi ornamen rumah adat Aceh di Gampong Reubee Kecamatan Delima di Kabupaten Pidie,” Gorga : Jurnal Seni Rupa, vol. 11, no. 2, 2022, doi: 10.24114/gr.v11i2.1023.

[31] O. Avinc, A. Celik, G. Gedik, and A. Yavas, “Natural dye extraction from waste barks of Turkish red pine (Pinus brutia Ten.) timber and eco-friendly natural dyeing of various textile fibers,” Fibers and Polymers, vol. 14, no. 5, 2013, doi: 10.1007/s12221-013-0866-0.

[42] A. Anchana, “Extraction of Natural Dyes from Fungus – An Alternate for Textile Dyeing,” Journal of Natural Sciences Research www, vol. 4, no. 7, 2014.

[43] F. Batool, N. Iqbal, M. Azeem, S. Adeel, and M. Ali, “Sustainable dyeing of cotton fabric using black carrot (Daucus carota L.) plant residue as a source of natural colorant,” Pol J Environ Stud, vol. 28, no. 5, 2019, doi: 10.15244/pjoes/93712.

[44] A. Ardinal and S. Sy, “Pengaruh konsentrasi tawas dan tunjung dalam limbah cair pengolahan gambir (Uncaria gambir Roxb.) untuk penyamakan kulit,” Jurnal Litbang Industri, vol. 9, no. 2, 2019, doi: 10.24960/jli.v9i2.5751.141-149.

[45] Y. Vadwala and N. Kola, “Natural Dyes Extracted From Waste Leaves Of Terminalia Catappa Locally Known As Tropical Almond And Its Application On Silk Fabrics Pretreated With Eco Friendly And Noneco-Friendly Mordants,” International Journal of Research -GRANTHAALAYAH, vol. 5, no. 5, 2017, doi: 10.29121/granthaalayah.v5.i5.2017.1845.

[46] R. M. Faisal and A. Chafidz, “Extraction of Natural Dye from Ketapang Leaf (Terminalia catappa) for Coloring Textile Materials,” in IOP Conference Series: Materials Science and Engineering, 2019. doi: 10.1088/1757-899X/543/1/012074.

[47] Thomson and Evans, “Species Profiles for Pacific Island Agroforestry - Terminalia catappa (tropical almond),” Species proÞles for PaciÞc Island Agroforestry, vol. ver. 2.2, no. December, 2006.

[48] K. Elsahida, A. M. Fauzi, I. Sailah, and I. Z. Siregar, “Sustainable production of natural textile dyes industry,” in IOP Conference Series: Earth and Environmental Science, 2020. doi: 10.1088/1755-1315/472/1/012036.


Refbacks

  • There are currently no refbacks.


Copyright (c) 2025 Aprina Murwanti, Fariz Al Hazmi, Fauzy Prasetya Kamal

Creative Commons License
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.

___________________________________________________________
International Journal of Visual and Performing Arts
ISSN 2684-9259
Published by Association for Scientific Computing Electronics and Engineering (ASCEE)
W: http://pubs2.ascee.org/index.php/viperarts
E: sularso@ascee.org
Organized by:

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0

Viperarts Stats